Column: Adapting To My New Direct Drive Wheelbase

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Upgrading from a T300RS to a CSL DD was a much more significant jump than I was expecting.
After seven long years with my Thrustmaster T300RS wheelbase, the upgrade to a direct drive base was finally on the cards. With just over a month of experience with the base, here is everything I have learnt while upgrading my entire setup.

To begin with, I took advantage of Fanatec's Black Friday deals and picked up their CSL DD 5Nm base with the sturdy WRC wheel rim, QR2 quick releases, and the simply brilliant V3 pedals. With shipping included, the overall price was £603.50. Fanatec has cleaned up its reputation for poor shipping times and communication, especially in the UK. I received all my parcels just eight days after ordering. I would say that is impressive for international postage.

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My new Fanatec setup after over a decade of using a DIY cockpit and a belt-driven T300RS Wheelbase.

About three weeks before I decided to make the jump to Fanatec and direct drive, my brother-in-law had mentioned he was very interested in giving sim racing a try, so my Thrustmaster was donated to him so that he could give the hobby a proper go without having to buy something like a Logitech wheel.

With this, my trusty DIY cockpit was also donated. I had built this with my father ten years ago when I was thirteen, so for this to stay in the family was a great relief to me. It certainly was not anything too spectacular, but for a wooden rig, it never gave me a single issue in the decade of use it saw. The seat was from my old BMW E36 drift car, so the seating position was fantastic, and the inverted T3PA Pro pedals gave me the perfect starting simulator.

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My old DIY cockpit before I donated it to my younger brother-in-law

Since I now lacked a cockpit, I had to invest in something relatively compact and lightweight. Immediately, I wrote off complete aluminium profile cockpits from brands like SimLab and Trak Racer, so after some searching around, the new Fanatec CSL Cockpit became my new base for my sim racing antics.

With its lightweight tubular design, it was the perfect fit for my needs. It was light and small enough to fit into my office space. Having an entirely new setup was a rather strange feeling, but after a decade of sim racing, it was about time I upgraded my setup.

Adapting to a new setup​

After so long with a belt-driven wheelbase, upgrading to a direct-drive wheelbase was a dramatic change. The wheelbase slides perfectly into the CSL Cockpit, so mounting and setting up the wheel was straightforward. The software was also straightforward, with everything available directly from the Fanatec website. Unfortunately, the wheelbase is still in its 5Nm guise, but the 8Nm upgrade pack is due very soon.

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Fanatec CSL DD 8Nm. Image: Fanatec

After about an hour of testing, I was thrilled with the wheelbase. It was not all good news, though; a metallic grinding sound was coming from the wheelbase, but after some extensive research and investigating a few screws were replaced and torqued, it was sorted, and the wheelbase was back to working order.

So far, I am slower than I was with my Thrustmaster setup, but I'm sure my lap times will improve with time. I have noticed that my consistency with my trail braking has massively improved. With the 90kg loadcell pedal on the Fanatec V3 pedals, it's much easier to brake in the same manner each time I approach a corner. Check out Angus' column on how he adapted to loadcell pedals if you want to learn more.

Is Direct Drive a worthwhile upgrade?​

I think it goes without saying that all direct-drive wheelbases will outperform something like a T300RS or a Logitech G29, but there are plenty of other options outside of the Fanatec ecosystem if that is not a route you want to go down.

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My brilliant Fanatec V3 pedals mounted on the CSL Cockpit.

If you are happy with your wheelbase, but maybe your wheelstand or desk is holding you back, check out our guide on a few of the best cockpits €500 can get you. This upgrade can make all the difference regarding comfort and stability whilst racing, especially for those longer sessions.

Overall, the upgrade was worth it. It took me some time to adjust to the new seating position, and a new monitor is undoubtedly required, but for now, this setup is more than enough for me.

What aspect of your setup do you want to upgrade next? Let us know in the comments down below!
About author
Connor Minniss
Website Content Editor & Motorsport Photographer aiming to bring you the best of the best within the world of sim racing.

Comments

I do know what you mean about the surface details. Quite a lot, well a huge amount in fact, of ported tracks from other games to AC have little to none surface details. In order to spice things up I usually edit the surfaces.ini file and add some canned effects so that it doesn't feel like I'm driving on a pool table and utterly lifeless. That's the one thing AMS1 and 2 do nail - track surface detail.

To be fair even the default tracks were underwhelming imho.
Wishbones on historic barely moving destroyed immersion coming from rF2.

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Premium
I'm so used to the Fanatec DD+ properly configuring itself to each car in Gran Turismo 7, all this makes me cry.

What could be more critical? Thank you so much Kazuki Yamada! https://www.mobygames.com/person/1624931/kazuki-yamada/
For Reference:

Like how would you ever even know. Without a trained professional test configuring them all to ensure consistency, accuracy, and fidelity, just wow.
 
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As you own a CSL DD here are my suggestions (I have been using mine since 2021). I have 8 nm.
  • I have the FFB set to 100% in the Fanatec settings and to 65% in the game settings (I play AC, ACC). This is the limit to avoid clipping. I find this value very good with my wheels (Clubsport RS and McLaren GT3 v2).
  • For ACC, in the Fanatec settings I decreased the FEI (force effect intensity) to 70, it makes hitting the kerbs less brutal at least on the Porsche GT3 I drive.
  • As you are talking about getting a monitor, make sure you get a monitor that supports a refresh rate of 120Hz or more to avoid any input lag. Of course you need to have your game run at good FPS, to me 90+ FPS is important for sim racing.
  • One more general thing: the steering lock can greatly affect the responsiveness of the car to your inputs. The games adjust it automatically but when I feel the steering response too slow or too fast I manually adjust it in the Fanatec settings (SEN), or in the car setup (steering ratio) when this setting is available.
 
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I'm so used to the Fanatec DD+ properly configuring itself to each car in Gran Turismo 7, all this makes me cry.

What could be more critical? Thank you so much Kazuki Yamada! https://www.mobygames.com/person/1624931/kazuki-yamada/
For Reference:

Like how would you ever even know. Without a trained professional test configuring them all to ensure consistency, accuracy, and fidelity, just wow.
Yeah, Ben Collins was in charge of the vehicle physics and handling technical advice for Project Cars series... Does that feel right to you? Forgive me for sounding abrupt but it's been said ad nauseam on these threads... What feels right for one man, doesn't for another unfortunately. And as said by folks in this thread and many others, FFB on our wheels is trying to make up for a whole plethora of physical effects on the body that we can't simulate (yet) in the sim racing world. Some like a fast, lively & chattery wheel on the straights and a good bit of detail in the corners (me)...others like it to be a test of strength with near to zero road texture detail on the straights or in a corner.

I've raced 2 stroke karts all my life since I was a fat little child and the feeling you get sat behind the wheel feels absolutely nothing like it does in any games we have currently. Sad but true. We're all racing a very rough approximation - AT BEST - we just don't know it.
 
Premium
You might want to look at Kazuki Yamada's resume, it's exceptional sim racing and in real life racing.

I respect Ben a lot, but he has NO sim racing experience. You need both. He knows it, he's trying to catch up.

He's doing a lot with the best Gran Turismo sim racers because they are the most prolific to take the realism of GT7 and become pro racers from it.

 
Premium
You might want to look at Kazuki Yamada's resume, it's exceptional sim racing and in real life racing.

I respect Ben a lot, but he has NO sim racing experience. You need both. He knows it, he's trying to catch up.

He's doing a lot with the best Gran Turismo sim racers because they are the most prolific to take the realism of GT7 and become pro racers from it.

A racing driver come sim racer is not ideal for telling the truth, their mind will tell them a different story than the guy with no Sim Racing skills.
A fella whose only ever raced for real won't be able to fudge the feelings in a sim rig... it's simply not the same.
The best any dev can do is work with the information that's given to them by a 'non sim' driver, and work out what to do with the programming, without the non sim driver getting too comfortable in the sim driving world.
 
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